I see a lot of people in various forums who have issues with their printer printing a document partway or at all. The standard response seems to be that they have dodgy Wi-Fi or that the Wi-Fi in these printers is terrible (not true!) so just use a cable. That answer does work most of the time, but not for the reasons the poster says. It’s very, very likely that you can use the Wi-Fi on your printer.

Before I go into possible solutions, let’s take a look at how printing works. I promise, it’s worth it, because knowing how it works explains a lot. Then I’ll describe the possible problems with your computer and how to solve them, which fixes nearly all of the half-page printing problems. And finally, I’ll go into what causes dodgy Wi-Fi and how to fix that and then why cables aren’t going to speed up your printing even if you fix your problem.

How the Print Spooler Works

When you press Print to send your print to the printer, your application formulates the data to send to the print spooler or print queue. This is a program on your computer that runs in the background so it can manage the communication with the printer while go back to doing something productive on the computer. The spooler writes the entire print job into memory and creates a special working file on the local drive. Then it starts talking to the printer with a conversation that goes something like this:

Spooler: Hey, printer, are you there?
Printer: Yep, I’m here!
Spooler: Awesome. The driver tells me that I can send you a chunk of data of a defined size. You ready?
Printer: Yep! [Alternately, it could say, “Not really, I don’t have any paper,” or “Nope, there’s no ink!”]
Spooler: [Assuming it’s ready] Here’s the first chunk.
Printer: Thanks…I’ll let you know when I’m ready for the next chunk.
Spooler: *listens intently*
Printer: OK, I’m ready for more.
Spooler: Here you go! *goes back to listening intently*

The conversation continues with the spooler sending info, then the printer asking for more. Finally, the spooler will say, “Here’s the last bit,” and continue listening until the printer says, “Thanks! I’ve finished printing and have ejected the last page.” At that point, the spooler says, “Thanks! See ya!” and then cleans up the memory and deletes that working file it created.

It’s really a pretty cool system and it generally works quite well.

What Happens When the Communication Breaks?

Sometimes stuff happens and the communication breaks. At this point, the spooler is supposed to be listening. The printer says, “OK, I’m ready for more.” But it doesn’t receive a response from the spooler. It asks again, “Hey, you are you there? I said, I’m ready for more!” But it still doesn’t hear from the spooler, so it shrugs and assumes that it misunderstood and that was the end of the data, so it can eject the page. If your computer gets shut off, the Wi-Fi is turned off, or the laptop goes to sleep, thee will

What Else Can Go Wrong?

Remember when I said that the print job gets written into memory and it opens a special file on the disk? Sometimes things can go wrong with that. For example:

• It tries to write into memory but there isn’t enough memory.
  If this is the case, it might print only part of the document. It means you likely have 2GB or less of total RAM (and you’re also having computer problems other than printing), you’ve got too many programs open (close a few), or you’ve got a browser open with too many tabs open (close a few of those). If your computer is relatively new, it likely has plenty of memory. This is a possibility, but not a probability.
• It tries to open the working file, but there isn’t enough disk space.
  Do you have only a few GB of space available? If so, move some of those unused files to external storage, like a jump drive, an external drive, or cloud storage. Try to keep at least 5-10GB free on your local drive.
• It didn’t clean up after itself and it has gotten confused.
  There are times when it doesn’t properly clean up either the memory or the working file. If these are left hanging around, it confuses the spooler and it forgets to continue talking properly to the printer, so the printer figures the job is done.
• The computer stopped communicating.
  Did you print to the printer then close your laptop or turn it off to take a break? (Yeah, I do this all the time!) Did your computer go to sleep? Check your settings.

The first two have easy solutions, to free up more memory or storage. The third issue means that you have to clear and restart the print spooler. The fourth means you turned off the computer, intentionally or inadvertently.

Identifying What Goes Wrong

How do you know what to fix? It’s certainly a challenge! The list of what else that could go wrong is written in the order that I see people suggesting how to fix it (using a cable is actually first), but they’re actually listed in order of how common the problem is. Let’s look at them one-by-one.

The Computer Stopped Communicating

For sublimation and crafting in general, we are printing large, high quality graphics that can take minutes to print. When you print office documents, the data sent is much more compact, as it’s usually black text with lots and lots of non-printing background. And it’s printed at a lesser resolution with all the fast printing turned on (those are the settings we specifically turn off when printing graphics!) A page can take 15 seconds or so to print. But when you print large graphics as slow as possible, it can take 6 minutes to print a full page graphic with a non-white background (for say, a skinny tumbler).

The most common reason — the computer goes to sleep

Now imagine that print spooler conversation. Let’s say they’ve started the conversation and gotten through data being sent every, say, 90 seconds. Let’s pick that up in the middle:

Spooler: Here’s set #3.
Printer: Thanks, got it.
Spooler: *listens intently*
Computer: Uh, the user hasn’t given me any input in the last few minutes. I’m shutting down.
Spooler (to computer): Whatever, dude — hey, wait… *silence*
Printer: OK, send me the next chunk!
Printer: Anybody there?
Printer: Hey, do you have anything for me?
Printer: OK, I guess we’re done here. I’ve ejected the print, if you can hear me. See ya.

There’s the biggest reason for the half of a print. 

“But it was still printing when my computer turned off! That can’t be it!” Well, that communication takes place sporadically. That chunk of data is the size of the printer’s (small) memory and that transfers very, very fast. But we’re printing on the slowest printing — it takes A LOT of time for the mechanical action of printing to use all that data so the printer can call for it again. It will likely never stop printing at exactly the same time as the computer goes to sleep. The printer will always lag the computer shutting down by a minute or more, which is why few people see the cause and effect.

If you use a USB cable to connect to your printer, the sleep mode is sometimes configured to keep the USB port awake a little longer since that takes less power than the Wi-Fi radio. In some cases, when you’re printing just one print that might have a page of bookmarks or earrings, or something with a little less data (and a lot more white space), it might be enough to finish the print before it shuts off the USB port. Maybe.

Check to see how your power settings are set. In Windows,

1. In the Search bar at the bottom left of your screen, start typing edit power plan
2. As you type, it will come up with suggestions. Open the Edit power plan – Control panel program.
3. Set the settings you want.

The screen below shows the settings I use. When I’m working while using my battery only, I have it set to turn off the display and sleep after 3 minutes of inactivity. This is the default. The display uses a lot of battery power, as does everything else, so I’ll shut those down quickly — not long enough to print even one page. When I’m working plugged in, I’ll let the display stay on for 10 minutes, but let the laptop stay on for 25 minutes — long enough to print 4 pages. I am sure to plug in when I want to print. The default is 5 minutes for both; sometimes not enough to get the communications completed for the whole print, especially if you’re printing larger than letter/A4 size.

And then there’s turning it off too soon

The other reason why I get half prints is that I’m used to closing my laptop when I’m done for a while. Usually I’ve been spending a lot of time getting my image just right, so I print it, then decide it’s time to do something else, when I close my laptop lid. And then I sever the connection and have to reprint. Yay. Argh.

The Print Spooler Gets Confused

OK, computers don’t get confused, but it’s an easy way to explain it because we can all relate! Remember how there’s the special files that get written? Sometimes they don’t get completely erased. If there’s something “stuck” (or leftover) in that folder that the spooler uses, it can sometimes cause a conflict when it tries to print what it’s working on but finds another half-printed file. And when it can’t resolve the conflict, it ejects the print.

Sometimes, the conflict can be resolved by restarting the print spooler. Rebooting the computer is one way to restart it. There’s another, more technical way to do it. This way allows us to find that folder and remove the stuck files. If the print spooler is running, it won’t allow you to access the folder, so you have to follow all the instructions.

Here’s how to fix the problem

1. In the search box at the bottom left of your screen, start type services
2. As you type, it will come up with suggestions. Open the Services program
3. Be sure Services (Local) tab is selected on the left-hand pane. On the right-hand pane, scroll down and double-click Print Spooler in the list of services.
4. Click on the Stop button, and then select OK. (Leave the window open as you’ll come back to it.)
5. Going back to the search box at the bottom left of your screen, enter 
   %WINDIR%\system32\spool\printers
   and then select Open file location on the right-hand panel.
6. Delete all files in the folder. (If all you see are more folders, don’t delete anything! Your print spooler may not be stopped properly!)
7. Go back to the Services window. (If you closed it, repeat the first two steps.)
8. Select the Services (Local) tab, and the double-click Print Spooler in the list of services.
9. Select Start. (If it asks about Startup Type, select Automatic) and then select OK.

Using a USB cable to connect your computer to the printer does fix this problem, too, because it creates a brand new method to connect to the printer which doesn’t yet have any files in it. At some point in the future, this queue can get confused, too!

Not enough RAM (memory) or disk space

If you’ve tried everything to this point, there’s a possibility that you need more RAM or disk space. I’m putting both of these together because they’re actually sort of related.

For RAM, also referred to as memory, if you’ve bought a computer since 2010, you’ve likely got enough memory installed in your computer. If you’ve ever successfully printed a full-size graphic, you’ve got enough memory installed.

Installed is not the same thing as available. You use memory with every program you open and every tab you open in your browser. If you’ve got a lot of programs open while you are printing, try closing a few. (Start with the browser and its 37 tabs that are open!). Printing doesn’t take a lot of memory, so you shouldn’t need to close too much unless you’ve got less than 4GB installed.

It doesn’t take a whole lot of memory because it can use those special files in that folder. That’s a problem if you don’t have a lot of space left on your disk. If you don’t have a few GB free on your computer, you need to find a way to free up storage by moving some of your files to external storage (an external hard drive, a cloud drive, or a jump drive). That’s the only way you’re going to fix the problem is to free up some space. Even using a USB cable won’t save you in this case.

I’ve Tried Everything, Now What?

If you’ve truly tried everything (twice) and are here, there is some chance you do have dodgy Wi-Fi. Here are some things that can help you double-check that this is the problem:

• You can’t stream videos on your network or have other problems with other devices anywhere in your home connecting to the Internet.
• You use your cell phone near the printer (like on top of it) and cannot connect to the Internet on the 2.4GHz band (you’ll have to move your phone into 2.4GHz band; your phone is likely connecting at 5GHz while the printer has to use the 2.4GHz band)
• Try the USB cable. If that works (AND you have tried all of the above!), it could be dodgy Wi-Fi.

Chances are, if you’re having dodgy Wi-Fi, there’s a fairly easy fix for it.

Too much traffic on your router

How many devices are on your router? How many of the are streaming video at the moment? Streaming video takes a lot of bandwidth. A router can’t talk to everything all at the same time so it will attempt to prioritize the connections. If three or four people are streaming video and you don’t have Gigabit Fiber, you might be bumping up against the limits of your router. It might be time for a router upgrade, as newer specifications can handle more devices at once.

A corollary to this is that routers tend to use specific channels. If you have a lot of Wi-Fi networks in your area, changing the channel that your router uses may help with reception. (No, your neighbors can’t intercept your communications if they’re on the same channel. But your router may have to decide whether it’s supposed to pay attention to that signal or let it go. Changing the channel to one that isn’t used in your area removes that problem. See your router’s manual for more information on how to change it.)

Out of date firmware

Please keep your firmware updated. These have security updates that are vital to keeping your network, computers, and data secure. Not only that, out of date firmware can hinder how well your router works. In addition to security updates, there are updates that fix bugs, add new features, and ensure compatibility with new standards.

Out of date router

If your router is over about 7 years old, it’s probably time to upgrade it. There are always newer technologies (that include important security upgrades) that help make things more stable or add new protocols that provide additional speed or compatibility with newer devices.

Electromagnetic interference

Is your router behind your TV or on top of a speaker? Move it to at least 6″ to one side or another of these devices. Even better, move it closer to the ceiling above the device, like on top of a bookshelf. I’ve “fixed” at least a half-dozen friends and family’s problems by moving it from hidden behind the TV to 6″ beside the TV. Other forms of electro-magnetic interference can be: baby monitors, microwave ovens (in use), and cordless phones.

Physical interference

Have you hidden your router in a cabinet, a closet, or in a closed box? Containers can obstruct the signal and also contribute to overheating. Did you take the antennas off so it fits in the container? They’re kind of useful, so put them back on.

Also contributing to physical interference are masonry or cement walls, an unusual amount of plumbing, wiring, or metal studs in the wall, large appliances with large metal boxes, book cases, aquariums, and other materials that prevent signal transmission.

Distance from the router

Is either your computer or your printer far from your router? The signals always go through the router, so if either the computer or the printer is close to the maximum transmission distance from the router, that could be the problem. Each interior wall and other obstruction can shorten that distance a bit. The maximum distance for 2.4GHz, which is what your printer uses, is 150’/45m indoors and 300’/90m outdoors. Your computer may connect 2.4GHz, but it’s more likely that it uses 5GHz which has a maximum 50’/15m distance.

Fixing Dodgy Wi-Fi

The first thing to try is updating your router’s firmware. You’ll need to look up your router’s manual, plus you’ll need your router’s username and password, hopefully written on the bottom of the router. The only way to skip this step is to replace your router. Replacement isn’t a bad idea if it’s over 7 years old or over 4-5 years old and you rent it from your internet provider. If you rent it (look at your bill and see if you have a router charge), call your ISP and ask them for the most current router and tell them your problems. They’ll try to help you solve them, probably asking about all of the above criteria.

If you have electromagnetic interference, you need to move your router around. Sometimes moving it away from the source of the interference. Sideways is good, up towards the ceiling can have even better gains. If it’s in something, take it out, again, up is best. If the microwave is the problem, trying to position the printer, laptop, and router so none have the microwave between them is helpful. The baby monitor is a tough one — turn it off when not in use (you may have to turn off both the camera and the screen/remote unit, which is a real pain, because you’re probably printing when the baby is asleep!

You can also try a Wi-Fi extender. These can be fairly cheap (even under $20!) or expensive (over $100 — in 2024 US dollars). These can be placed to get around some of the obstructions or dead spots in your Wi-Fi network. For more information on these, some good sources to explain this are PC Magazine or CNet. To find out which are the best, search for “best Wi-Fi extenders yyyy” where yyyy is the year. Then pick one of those two sites. Good brands are TP-Link, Netgear, Linksys, D-Link, Asus, and a few others.

Then there’s replacing your router. This is probably going to cost you a couple hundred dollars. Again, if your internet service provider provided your router, contact them and request an upgrade. You could be paying $10-15 a month for rental, and if so, they can help fix your problems or upgrade the router for you. (Note: a $200 modem might pay for itself in 20 months or less!) There are two kinds of modems: the traditional box with lots of antennae on it and a mesh system that looks like a set cannisters or stylized boxes. Both have their places. If you live in a small home, a traditional modem may work quite well for you. If you live in a larger, two-story home or have an unusually shaped residence that doesn’t have good reception at the outer edges, the mesh routers might be your solution. Mesh routers have 2, 3, or more units that you space throughout your house and these devices will determine which one gets the best connection. I have a three-story home with one on each floor. It’s surprising that devices on the far side of the house connect to the third floor when it seems like the second floor would be “better.” I’ve helped several families with mesh routers that eliminate dead spots in their home.

In only one case, we had an issue that nothing would stay connected to the router. We tried everything. They finally switch from one fiber provider to another cheaper provider. They kept their router and only reconfigured the service provider; the names and settings of all the connected devices stayed the same. All the devices that were intermittently disconnecting (which was basically all of them) began working without a hitch. There is likely something the service provider could have done if they had contacted the provider. Especially if you rent your router, please don’t hesitate to contact your service provider for help.

But Won’t A Cable be Faster?

No, not really. That used to be true. When the first USB standard was written, Wi-Fi hadn’t been invented yet. Three years later, the 802.11b standard (popular because it was cheaper) was slightly slower than the USB cable. However, the next year the USB 2.0 specification was released, and it was far faster, 9 to 43 times the fastest theoretical speed (and Wi-Fi rarely reaches it’s theoretical speed in the real world, so probably more like 20-80 times as fast). But then, in 2009, Wi-Fi speeds leapfrogged the USB 2.0 specification and are now thousands of times faster. Like any new standard, the Wi-Fi 4 standard took a couple of years to become widely adopted. So, around 2011, Wi-Fi became faster than the USB 2.0 standard.

Name	IEEE Specification	Year	Max Speed	Bands (GHz)
“Wi-Fi 1”	802.11b	1999	11 Mbps	2.4
USB 1.0		1996	12 Mbps	na
“Wi-Fi 2”	802.11a	1999	54 Mbps	5
“Wi-Fi 3”	802.11g	2003	54 Mbps	2.4
USB 2.0		2000	480 Mbps	na
Wi-Fi 4	802.11n	2009	600 Mbps	2.4 & 5
Wi-Fi 5	802.11ac	2013	3.46 Gbps	5
Wi-Fi 6/6E	802.11ax	2019/2020 (6E)	10.53 Gbps	2.4 & 5, 6 for 6E
Wi-Fi 7	802.11be	2024	40 Gpbs	2.4, 5, & 6

Yes, there are faster USB standards, but no sublimation-ready printer or printer able to be converted supports more than the USB 2.0 standard. For Wi-Fi, they support Wi-Fi 4 or Wi-Fi 5. Chances are, your Wi-Fi is faster than your USB cable.

And the USB cable cannot be more than 15′ long without a repeater (that introduces more problems and is very expensive). Since all the printers work only on the 2.4Ghz network, it can be up to 150′ away from the router.

OK, so, Wi-Fi is faster than the cable. But it really doesn’t matter because the printhead can’t print that fast. Not by a longshot. There’s no equation for Mbps to print speed. But the mechanical printhead is necessarily slower than even the slowest data transfer rate.

For those who say that cables are always faster than Wi-Fi, you’re wrong. You’re probably repeating information found on the internet that was valid when it was written, which is before around 2011. It’s not true now for printers that use the USB 2.0 standard. And if you’re arguing that, you really don’t understand that it doesn’t matter how fast it transfers, the memory isn’t large enough to hold the whole image, so the spooler is always going to have to wait on the printhead and the last bit of data is going to get in a difference of seconds — at the slowest — on a print that’s going to take minutes to print. Whether you use a cable or Wi-Fi really doesn’t matter because the printhead is so much slower.